UKIC Textile Section

UKIC Textile Section

[email protected]

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The UKIC Textile Section exists to promote the profession of textile conservation and the interests of textile conservators. It aims to provide a forum for the discussion of current issues and information exchange. The Section was set up in 1991 and has since become established as a lively group which has undertaken a wide range of activities. It has links with similar organisations in Europe and North America. Membership is open to all those involved in textile conservation.


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Problems With Dyeing Nylon Net

The National Trust Textile Conservation Studio dyes large quantities of nylon conservation net for covering seat furniture, netting curtains, et cetera. The Studio has amassed a library of recipes over the years, but often experiences difficulty in repeating colours. Needless to say, this can be a costly experience.

The fine 20 denier monofilament nylon net is always used with �Ciba' Lanaset dyes. The studio is currently looking into possible reasons behind why some recipes are not repeating.

The practice of dyeing forms part of my internship and certain questions were raised whilst producing a dye triangle. Firstly, I used samples of net from two different stock batches that had been in the studio for some time. Out of interest, I repeated the same recipe on samples from each batch. This produced two different colours. I continued further using the same recipe and found that other old stocks of net produced different colours again. This has lead to on-going experiments being carried out on the ageing of nylon net and its ability to take up dye.

We have also found that some dye combinations work better than others, due to the dyes having different-sized molecules that affect the individual dye take-up. Other experiments have been carried out to eliminate human error.

If any other studios or individuals have had problems of this nature relating to the dyeing of nylon net, the Textile Conservation Studio would be very grateful for any information or input into these experiments. The Studio hopes to write up the conclusions of these experiments in the future.

Anna Todd
Levy Textile Conservation Intern.

Email: general.textiles <at> nationaltrust.org.uk *

* To use this e-mail address replace ' <at> ' with '@'


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Caring for Historic Textiles

A document setting out basic advice for looking after all types of precious historic textiles.

Textiles are treasured and prized for many reasons. Families often have heirlooms such as christening robes and wedding veils which they want to keep safe for use by future generations. Historic textiles such as samplers and lace make popular collectors items and may have great intrinsic value. With foreign travel, textile items from around the world are increasingly prized as evidence of past cultural diversity. Historic textiles of all kinds may be valued simply because they enhance the home and provide pleasure and interest.

Textiles need special care if they are to be preserved for the future.

Keeping your textiles safe

The best way to keep historic textiles safe is to ensure that they are stored well when not in use.

Light, dirt, damp and pests will all cause damage. Acids, which are present on our hands and skin, in materials like cardboard and wood, and in atmospheric pollution, are also harmful.


Storing your textiles

The best place to store historic textiles is:

  • in the dark;

  • somewhere neither damp nor very dry (cellars and attics are not a good idea);

  • in a dust-proof container e.g. a box with lid, dust bag or wrapped in a dust sheet.


Packing your textiles away

For all textiles:
Make sure that only the best materials are used: unbleached, washed pure cotton for dust wraps and acid-free tissue paper for packing. Acid-free tissue is available from conservation suppliers and good stationers. Use acid-free boxes and tubes if available.

For garments: Costumes in bags need plenty of space, and should be padded with acid-free tissue to avoid crushing folds. Garments in very good condition can be hung on padded-to-shape hangers. Do not hang knitted, heavily beaded or bias-cut garments.

For flat textiles: Small items should be kept flat, each on its own piece of acid-free tissue paper. Larger pieces should be rolled, right side outside, onto tubes covered with several layers of acid-free tissue paper. Folding should be avoided, especially for silk.


Using your historic textiles

Textiles are more likely to get damaged while being used than at any other time. Just handling a textile causes deterioration and risks damage.

If preservation is important, do not risk using or changing use of a textile without first consulting a Textile Conservator. Here are some basic guidelines for safe use:

For garments:
Heirlooms like christening robes and wedding veils may need conservation treatment before wearing, to reduce the risk of damage. They must be clean before being put away. It is not advisable to wear historic costume as fancy dress.

For embroidered pictures and samplers:
Frames must be sealed to keep them dust-proof and pest-proof, and should have moisture barriers at the back. Glass should not rest on textile surfaces. To hang, choose places out of strong light, especially sunlight, and away from radiators and external walls.

For carpets and rugs:
Worn specimens damage rapidly if used on the floor, and should be shown as hangings. Choose floor sites which minimise the amount a rug or carpet is walked on and exposed to light, and turn it round regularly. Never put precious rugs in entrance halls to suffer the trampling of wet and dirty outdoor shoes.

For hangings:
Hang textiles from poles in sewn-on sleeves; or use sewing quality hook-and-loop fastener. Never use pins, hooks or curtain rings.


Checking your textiles

For pests:
Check for signs of pest damage (moth and 'woolly bear'), especially on woollen textiles. Keep a look out for flying pest insects, especially in early summer.

For fading:
Colour differences between front and back indicate that light has damaged a textile. Light damage to dyes and fibres is irreparable.

For mould:
Inspect for mould if conditions have been damp or temperature variable.

For accumulation of dirt:
Check surfaces are not gathering dust. Surface dirt becomes ingrained and irremovable over time. If damage has occurred, try to identify the source and contact a Textile Conservator for advice on what action to take.


Avoiding accidental damage

Textiles are especially at risk when being handled or moved. Always try to:

  • plan the task and weigh up the risks beforehand;

  • have ready everything you need to do the job;

  • have a clean, tidy workspace;

  • support textiles when lifting; roll large pieces on tubes to carry them; lift small ones on boards or sheets of paper;

  • wear cotton gloves or disposable vinyl household gloves whenever possible when handling;

  • take off jewellery which may scratch or catch.



How to get help and advice

For specific advice on caring for your historic textiles you should always contact a Textile Conservator. A Textile Conservator can also advise you on appropriate treatment for damaged textiles and on where to get conservation quality materials such as acid-free tissue paper. It is likely that there is a professional Textile Conservator working in your region.

For details of Textile Conservators contact:

for England, Wales and Northern Ireland
UKIC
109 The Chandlery
50 Westminster Bridge Road
LONDON SE1 7QY
Tel: 0207 721 8246

(a small fee is charged for consulting The Conservation Register)

for Scotland
Scottish Conservation Bureau
Longmore House
Salisbury Place
EDINBURGH EH9 1SH
Tel: 0131 668 8668

If your local museum has a conservation department it should be able to provide information on local suppliers of conservation materials and services.

©UKIC Textile Section 1997

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Activities

The Section has established working groups to undertake specific projects and look at particular issues. There is an active programme of meetings and study days which aim to promote informal debate. Such events will be followed by publications wherever relevant.

Visits are arranged to workshops and other places of interest in the UK and abroad. Conservation News, the quarterly UKIC newsletter, includes information on Section activities as well as articles and workshop notes from Section members.

Your participation in UKIC Textile Section activities is warmly welcomed!

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Publications

Prices in GB Pounds Sterling, excluding postage and packing.

 
UKIC Members
Non-Members
Starch and other Carbohydrate Adhesives (1994 Postprints)
10.00
12.50
     
Coping with Emergencies (1995 Postprints)
6.00
7.50
     
Costume in Context (1996 Postprints)
5.00
6.50
     
Painted Textiles (1997 Postprints)
5.00
6.50
     
Adhesive Treatments Revisited (1998 Postprints)
12.50
15.00
     
Solutions - the Influence of Locations on Treatments (2000 Postprints)
     
Guide to Textile Conservation Products and Suppliers
10.00
18.00
     
Caring for Historic Textiles
(general advice leaflet, revised edition)
00.25 (or 3.00 for 20)
     

These publications are available from the UKIC Office at:

702 The Chandlery
50 Westminster Bridge Road
London SE1 7QY
Tel: 020 7721 8721
Fax: 020 7721 8722

An index of Textile Section Articles that have appeared in Conservation News from March 1991 to July 2001 can be downloaded from here.


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Page created and maintained by Adrian Tribe - [email protected]
Last modified: Tuesday 19 April 2005