This article first appeared in Conservation News 81.

A Grand Tour
AGM morning visit to West Wycombe Park

For those who attended the Furniture & Wood Section AGM on 8th March 2002, there was the added bonus of a privileged "behind-the-ropes" visit to West Wycombe Park in Buckinghamshire, thanks to Mr. Mark Wilesmith, the assistant agent who arranged the visit and Sir Edward Dashwood, whose family has lived in the house since it was built in the early eighteenth century.

The contoured estate stands among the gently rolling hills north west of High Wycombe, and is approached through two fine ironwork gates at the start of a long ascending drive that delivers visitors to the entrance, an impressive portico of eight Ionic columns known as the Temple of Bacchus. It was here that the section members convened prior to their tour of the house, which was given by the informed Mr. Don Varney, the retired head guide.

During the eighteenth century, the second Baronet Sir Francis Dashwood furnished the house with the ideas and styles that he had encountered whilst on several Grand Tours of Europe, and much of the interior today is as he left it in 1789.

On entering the main reception hall, one is immediately struck by the stunning interior. A geometric stone floor meets marbled walls that support the deep panelled painted ceiling, and four grand scagliola columns of a pale grey hue divide the room. However, things were not always this impressive, the walls had been hidden beneath a layer of Victorian brown varnish and the floors covered with oak boards. This "changing rooms" travesty was thankfully reversed in 1963 when, with the judicious use of methylated spirits, the dark polish was removed to reveal the original pavenazetto hand marbled walls. When the oak boards were taken up, the stone floor required rebuilding to the original design using Portland stone and Forest of Dean sandstone. During restoration, an under-floor heating system was discovered, evidence of Sir Francis Dashwood's enthusiasm for the ingenuity of the ancient world.

The architectural features combine to convey the impression of the inner court of a Roman house, an impression further enhanced by the furniture and works of art throughout. Carved and gilded bases support specimen marbles that had been imported from Italy. These pier tables share wall space with oriental style lacquered cabinets, and above these items of furniture bronze and marble busts of Roman emperors reside on stone wall-brackets.

From the point of view of a Furniture & Wood Section Member, perhaps the most impressive aspect of the reception hall was the magnificent staircase. Constructed from Cuban mahogany with inlays of satinwood and ebony, it continues the entire three stories to the top of the house. The underside of the case is adorned with Rococo plasterwork and the walls of the stairwell are painted with frescoes of biblical and mythological scenes that become ever more erotic on their ascension.

From here we were led into the Saloon and greeted by a magnificent vista of the extensive gardens running down to the lake and far beyond. The vibrant yellow walls of the room were in complete contrast with the calm and serenity of the view. They were painted in 1965 to replace the red silk damask that had perished over time. The ceiling was painted with a copy of "The Council of Gods" by Raphael, once again reproducing the theme of a Roman villa (the original is in Villa Farnesina in Rome). Amongst the European furniture on display were two good marquetry commodes, purportedly by Pierre Langlois.

The tour came to a close in the dining room, upon whose walls were hung an interesting array of portraits of Sir Francis Dashwood in various guises and costumes. Among these depictions of alter egos was Sir Francis in Oriental dress, bringing to mind the Divan Club, one of the many fellowships he founded, a society for those who had visited the Ottoman Empire. He remains however better known as the founder of the Dilettanti Society and the Hellfire Club.

Throughout the tour we discovered designs and themes that evoke the spirit of the classical, from the lavish wall and ceiling decorations to the distinctly Italian works of art and furniture. The house is indeed often rightly described as one of the most theatrical and Italianate in England. West Wycombe Park cannot be grasped in one article, but I hope to convey it is worth a return visit.

• West Wycombe Park: www.west-wycombe-estate.co.uk