This article first appeared in Conservation News 79.

Field trip to Lisbon

A mixed group of UKIC members and students flew out to Lisbon on January 28th for a study tour of two museum conservation departments with optional visits to the medieval Moorish town of Sintra and the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos situated in Lisbon.

The first day of the trip was taken up with a visit to Sintra, situated some thirty miles outside Lisbon and readily accessible by train. The two main points of interest here are the extensive eighth century Moorish castle, which surmounts the mountain and the Palacio Nacional, which is now a museum. The castle is accessed via steep paths surrounded by woodland and rocky ravines and is well worth the visit for the scenic walk and the stunning views from the top.

The Palacio Nacional de Sintra is perhaps of more interest to furniture lovers with its collection of massive and turned Portuguese furniture with oyster veneers. This collection largely represents the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries and the Dutch influence is readily evident. Perhaps the most obvious feature of the Palacio Nacional is the pair of massive cone shaped chimneys, which act as an extraordinary landmark. They were erected in the fourteenth century by Jao I as an extraction system from the kitchens and look incongruously modern against the background of this ancient building.

The visit to the Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga was hosted by Professor Seruya, who is the director of the National Institute for Conservation. The conservation department is extensive, separate sections dealing with furniture, ceramics, paintings, metals, textile and sculpture. The department is housed partly in a charming old building and partly in a newer building with close access to the main section. Both are situated behind the National Museum, and are reminiscent of the conservation department, with its complex of corridors and alleys, at the British Museum. After a warm welcome, Professor Seruya guided a tour of the various departments, and gave generously of her time for which a great debt of gratitude is owed. Before the afternoon session at the Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga a question and answer session followed, and much was gained from both parties. Techniques were discussed and the morning ended with many thanks for the efforts put in by the conservators over the morning. The National Museum is housed in a seventeenth century palace built for the counts of Alvar, and stands on the other side of the docks and port of Lisbon with views across the bay. The collections are many and varied but of interest here is the Portuguese furniture collection, which starts with some of the earliest Gothic examples, showing a French influence, and continues through the sixteenth, seventeenth and eighteenth centuries with Dutch, French and Spanish influence. Turnery of a high order was present as was embossed leather in the Spanish style.

The next trip was to the Museu Calouste Gulbenkian which is situated in its own park, with sculpture gardens and water features which set an informal spring-like atmosphere prior to visiting the conservation department and museum. The Museum was opened in 1969, is purpose built and it is evident that no cost was spared in design and construction. Each section contained the best examples of their type but again I must refer to the furniture collection which is largely French, and contains examples of the best makers, including book cases, commodes, medal cases and a writing table by Charles Cressant, a variety of pieces by Jean Deforge, Bernard (II) Van Risenburgh, Jean Pierre Latz, Charles Cressant, Jean-Henri Riesener, George Jacob, Jean-Baptiste Boulard, Martin Carlin, Jean-Fran�ois �ben, George Jacob, Daniel Deloose and a whole host of beautiful unattributed pieces. The collection is dotted around the galleries and each piece draws the eye in a jewel like manner.

Rui Filipe Xavier, the chief conservator for furniture, welcomed us warmly to the museum and the conservation department. The conservation department is situated in the basement; it is spacious, climate controlled and must be the envy of many museums. At the time of the visit Rui Filipe Xavier was working on a multi panelled Japanese lacquered screen and he gave an informative talk on the techniques employed, followed by a round of questions and answers, and finally thanks and goodbyes.

The remainder of the trip to Lisbon consisted of an optional journey to the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos that stands as a monument to the age of discovery. The monastery was commissioned in 1501 by Manuel I and was funded by the taxed wealth brought back from the New World. The church contains the tomb of Vasco da Gama and a nautical element is evident in some of the internal decoration. The elegant and fine stone fan vaulting is amongst the most extraordinary seen in Europe. An extensive conservation and restoration project has recently been completed with evidence of the use of colourants and polymers, which now give the building the appearance of being built out of Bath stone. The original stonework was created from a limestone but there is historical evidence of it having been painted. The church and cloisters, which are extensive, are open to the public and the architecture can be described as distinctly Portuguese.

The five-day study tour was of immense educational value to all concerned, but more than that, it was an opportunity for pleasant social gatherings and discussion, usually over a meal in a Portuguese restaurant. The company was good, the food equally as good and the wine, beer and brandy kept the conversation flowing. Many thanks are due to Ed Gregory for the tremendous work involved in organising the trip and equally to John Cross of the London Guildhall university. They organize such trips annually. The next study trip, which is planned for the first week of 2003, will be to Budapest, again to visit the national museums and their conservation departments. The visit will be hosted by Professor Morgos, the head of conservation for the National Museum. Again, the tour will open to UKIC members. Look out for the advertisements in Conservation News and Grapevine.